Chef Nicholas Stefanelli shows how to cook ris de veau. Seth Tillman heads to Le Clou, an upscale French restaurant in D.C.'s NoMa neighborhood, where chef Nicholas Stefanelli shows how to cook ris de ...

I first encountered sweetbreads a few years ago when I was a judge for a local lamb cooking competition. After sampling some cold, mediocre, and downright bland dishes, my expectations had plummeted.

The menu at Clancy’s Restaurant is full of signature Creole dishes that the regulars know by heart, and one rather unlikely muse for nightly experimentation: sweetbreads. Brian Larson, executive chef ...